THE ORIGINAL 



AMERICAN 



Lady Tailor System. 




MRS. GARTLAND, 



NO. Is SOUTH THIRTEENTH ST, 



PHILADELPHIA, PENNA. 

>^OftWGHT. 




A 



'h' 



X 



Entered rxccrding to Act of Congress, in the Office of the 
D. C, A.D. 7SS4, by Mrs. Elizabeth Gartl.-ind, Philadelphia. 



Librarian of Congress, at Washingtor. 



- t 



J 



TENTS> 



Introductoey Chapter, 

History of the Lady Tailor System, 

Pattern Instrument (Diagram), 

A Peep Behind the Scenes, 

The Purpose of this Book, 

Measurement Positions (Diagrams), 

Plain Basque Measurement, 

Arm's Eye Measurement, . 

Plain Basque Diagram, 

Plain Basque Directions, . 

Special Note to Pupils, 

Sleeve Diagram and Directions, 

Skirt Diagrams, .... 

Skirt Directions, 

Basque No. 2 Directions, . 

Basque No. 2 Diagram, 

Basque with Plaits, Diagram and Directions, 

PoLANAisE, Princess Dress and Wrapper, 

Special Rules for Stout and Slender Ladies, 

Dress-maker's Catechism, &c., . 

A AVoRD TO Mothers, Health, &c.. 

Schools for Dress-Making, 

An Intervieav with Pupils, 

Rules for Cutting and Basting, 



PAGE 

3 
4 
5 

7 
8 
K) 
11 
14 
16 
17 
21 
23 
23 
27 
28 
29 
31 
32 
33 
34 
37 
38 
39 
40 



INTRODUCTORY. 



^\'(' j:ii;irimlt'C' perfect Aiiu-lioles, Sleeves, Bust, Darts, Curves, and 
Xeek withoii! Ixrp'ttin;/. It is sitii|)ly jierlect in all its Kijujt/irifi/ -Mid 
braufi/, :;:i(! we aiv pleased to cut any one Tc-i Lininf/s, to jtrovc its 
incrif.s. 

Never take insti'iietions in any System without liaving Test Linings 
flit and tried on. Many claim to be Self-fitting, l)ut Judge for your- 
self whether the iit is good or bad. 

We have tried all these so-called Tailoi- Systems, and do not wonder 
that exi)erieuc(d dress-makei's are disgusted with them. Practice and 
experience enable us to say that we have yet to record a single failure 
ill the use of our New System. 

It is our experience, and th.; basis of our System, that without a 
perfect arm-hole it is impossible to have a i)erfect-titting waist and 
sleeve. 

Our system i- th" only o:ie by which a i)erfect sleeve can l>e made 
without u ])article of alteration. The rules are so plain, both I'or 
measuring and drafting, that with ordinary care a mistake is almost 
imj)osslble. 

Agents wanted to introduce our New Svstem in everv Town, 
Village and City throughout the country. Territory lor sale. 

Sewing Machines, Drafting Paper, Tailor Pules, Tape Measures, 
and Tracing A\'heels for sale. 

Shoidd any one be unable to follow dii-ections in book, further in- 
structions will be given free, by mail or bv calling in person at Mr.-. 
Gartland's oflice, Xo. 15 South Thirteenth Stieet. 



THE HISTORY OF THE LADY TAILOR SYSTEM. 

Our system ditVers tVoin nnvtliiiij;' vwv before presented to tlie {)iil)- 
lic, and we will endeavor to ex[)laiii it briefly. Were we about to 
make a dress for a small doll, it is likely that in ordei- to aeeomj)lisli 
our task in as short a time as possible, we would do what many have 
done before us, and that is, we would lli'st cut a hole in the material, 
and slip the doll's arm in it. We would then taper in the waist, by 
taking it in under the arms, down the eentre of the baek, and take in 
another seam between these two, on each side of the back, curving 
around to the arndiole. We would then take up the darts, and 
adjust the shoulder seams. Thus it is most likely we Avould have 
(juite a neat-fitting dress for Miss Dolly. We do mueh the same thing 
in our New System. Having discovered that the proper fit of the 
armhoie was of the utmost importance, we spent many a sleepless 
night in thinking over the subje("t. We all know if the armliole is 
too tight, it is sure to tear out, and if too large it is impossible to 
remedy it. 

One cold night in February, when the household had been (piietly 
slee})ing for hours, these thoughts, as usual, persistently haunted us. 
Suddenly an idea came, and not wishing to lose it, we hastily jumped 
out of bed, crept quietly down stairs for fear of M'aking the sleepers, 
and whilst shivering in the cold, wc; hastily jotted down the first draft 
of our New American Lady U'ailor System, and then returned to our 
bed satisfied Avith the I'esults, and kn(twing we had made our of the 
grrafexf ht rent ions of fhc (if/c. 

When a })hysician is called uprui to |)rescribe for a patient, il he 
first endeavors to discover the cause of the syni])toms, the remedy is 
more easily found, dust so it was wilii us. We were the physician 
called u]»oii to |)reseribe for the patient, which in this case was an //'- 
fUCuKj <lr('.<-<. It had a bad lit. We discovei'ed the cau>e of thi> 
.-evere ilbies^ to be in the (/rm/iDfc, and \\v wvvc. fortunate euough to 
find the /•( med;/ and make a jxrffcl cure. 




MRS. ELIZABETH GARTLANDS 

SELF-ADJUSTING IRRI]GUL,AU CURVILINEAR 

PATTERN INGTnUMENT 

AND VARIABLE SELF-ADJUSTING 

Circular Attachment. 

Copyrighted by Elisabeth Cartland, Thilaclelphia. 



THE ORIGINAL 

AMERICAN 

Lady Tailor System. 

mrs. e. grrtlmd, 

INVENTOR 4ND SOLE PROPRIETOR, 

A PEEP BEHIND THE SCENES. 

Xo system is jwrfect, simply on account of its name. We liave 
French Systems, London Systems, Tailor Systems, and various other 
so-called Self-fitting Systems, which are concocted by the combination 
of all, or by a possil)le improvement on some, and are called Inven- 
tions. This is most likely done by those who, by thus naming their 
systems, seek to borrow glory or prestige from a foreign country. 
America, "The land of the free, and the home of the brave," has many 
bright minds and l)rilliant intellects; then why should we go abroad, 
when we are so perfectly able to cope with any nation under the 
sun ? 

We tiierefore take a pardonable iuid patriotic pride in our System 
as an im})rovemcnt on anything foreign, and we glory in the name we 
have given it, i.e., "The Original American Glove-fitting Lady 
Tailor Svsteni." 



8 

THE PURPOSE OF THIS BOOK. 

Tliis book is iiit('M(l('(l (o explain tlu; Principles of Drcss-euttinf!^, 
and is foniuled on Hi/atcindfic rii/cs, hy which any one can learn to 
measure, draf't, baste, cut, lit, and make dresses, without i'urthei' in- 
struction. 

To ^)RFls.s^[AKERS. — Tt will be of threat use to professional dross- 
makers, who, like the r:!V>'iitoi', iiave h:ul tht same sad experience in 
tl)e use of all other charts and systems. 

To Ladies in Puivate Life. — It is specially adapted to the use 
of those ladies who wish to alter t>r make their own dresses for home 
and morninj; wear. It is as much trout)le or more to a (iressmaker, 
to make a chintz or percale dress, as one of more; expensive material ; 
yet few ladies are willinir to pay as much, for it is probable that the 
making would often be three times as luuch as the original cost. Jf 
this class of work is done by the ladies themselves, or if tluy choose 
to superintend it at home, j)rofessional dress-makers will have more 
time to devote to the liner or more artistic work. 

To Young Ladies. — Yotmo; ladies, to you this book and the system 
it teaches will be invaluable. Many of you object to spending at least 
six or eight months time in learning the trade. 

Most of those who do this arc; but wasting their time. There are 
few who are taught the art of measuring, drafting, or cutting by rule, 
basting and fitting, and that all seams are put together differently; 
some having to be stretched, while others should be held in. In fact, 
we have known dressmakers who never allowed their ai)prentices to 
get a glimpse of these necessary things, but kept them continually em- 
ployed in one special branch, such as (piilling, rullling, fluting, bntton- 
liole making, ovei'casting, etc. 

The tinu; has now come when a yoiuig lady's education will be con- 
sidered unfinished unl<-ss she is an adept in this art. 



11 

MEASURES FOR DRAFTING PLAIN BASQUE. 

1. Nock, !•> iiulu's. 

2. Arm's-evc, 14 inclK's. 

0. Under-arni, 8 inches. 

4. Bust, 3G inches. 
"). Waist, 24 inches. 

(!. Lcnuth oi'Sack, K! inches. 

7. Width oi' back, l-'] inches. 

5. Lengtli of front, lo inches. 
1). Shoulder, T) inches. 

10. Hip, 40 inches. 

11. Height of Hip, 5 inches. 

12. Height of dart, 5 inches. 
1»3. Test measure, IG inches. 

DIRECTION FOR TAKING MEASURE. 
The tape is taken across the hack, very (4osc nn(h'r th(^ arm, around 
the front, and u[) over tii(! shoiUder; it is then fastened at the side of 
the neck, as sliown in figure. 

1. Ncc/x. Take a chjse measure outside of the collar of dress, re- 
moving all ties, handkerchiefs, etc., or take a moderately tight measure 
inside of the collar, about as you would have the dress tit. 



12 

2. Width of Arniho/c. Take a tiglit iiK'asnro, hy putlin<: the tap' 
unilcr the ann, up over the shoulder, to tlie ])hiee iu wliieh the .-<Iev'Ve 
is to be sewed. Care must be taken to avoid having' this measure to . 

loose. 

:>, Bust. Take a h)ose measure over the t'uHest part of the bus^, 
and around the back across the sliouhler bhules. 

t. Waist. Taki! a eh)se measure around the waist. The waistban! 
is fastened around the waist. 

o. Back. Take the measure aeross the back, from right to leit, on 
each side above the socket of the arm. 

(). Undcr-arm. Tiiis measure is invariably taken too nhort, and so 
causes the dress to tear out whenever a huly desires to raise her arms. 
The under-arm measure is taken from the bottom of v.aistband, 
ch)se to the tape which is in tlie axilla, or arm pit. 

7. Lenr/th of Hack. Take the measure from bone at back of neek 
just to the waistband, and not below. 

Should a ladv be very long waisted in the back, a second measure 
should bi' taken from the same [)oint at the neck, down to the cxlen- 
sion ot" hei' waist, ovei" the waistband. The ditference must b,' added 
after the first waist line is drawn on draft. This will avoid wrinklo, 
so often seen Detween the neck and shoulder blade, and the dress can 
not fail to lit into the figure in the back, which w ill also make it more 
comforta!)le. 

S. Loif/tli of Front. 'V-a]<v the measure from the hollow of the 
neck in front down to the boftnin of waistband. 

Shoidd the lady be long waisted in front, a second measure >hould 
br iakcn, and proceed as in the directions for the back. 

!*. Da)': Jlccif^xrc. The heiglit of darts is found by measuring from 
tlic wai.-t as high as desired. Distance In'tween darts i> deUrniined a; 
will. 

jo. llij) Midstirc. Take measure from waist toihc full hri^lit i-i' 
hip., tlicii take the measure around the fuilc^l ])ai't of liip>. 

If a lady has high hips or stomach, or if she wears a itustlc, or if, 



13 

on the contnirv, sjio has small lii[)s or small stomacli, and is hollow in 
the back, note should l»e taken and allowance made in the ri<iht pluc'C, 
and |ndcee<l as in rule 27, lor Draftint; IMain Uasciiie. 

1 1. Ted Mcdsuir. While the waisthand and tape ai-e slill around 
the I'orin, place tape at front hollow of neck and ])ass it hack of bust 
down to bottom of waistband, where the under-arm measure was taken. 
'Miis is used after draft is made, and is tested on di'aft the same way as 
the measure was taken on form. To be true both measures nuist be 
alike. 

The waist must slope to the back, from the hip to the second meas- 
ure taken for length of back. By following these directions exactly 
we guarantee a perfect lit ai-ound the waist and over the hips. 

12. Sleeve Measure. Place the hand at waist as shown in iigure. 
Then place the taj)e at the neck on an even line with the shoulder, 
and draw it over the shoulder down to elbow, deducting length of 
shoulder desired, after this measure is taken. We then take the 
measures around tiie upper arm, half way between uj)per arm and 
elbow, elbow, below the ell)ow, and the wrist. Also from inside of 
arm. t(» bend, and tVom bend to wrist. 



14 

TO DRAFT THE MEASURE OF ARM'S-EYE. 

Tlic l'(ill()\vin<i' (liiiiciisions will savf troiiMc to :my one ilrafting 
:ic<<)r<liiiiil(> this system, or to any one wlio is unaMf to find tlie lieiglit 
ol" the cii'dr L;ivcii l)v tlu' iiicasiirc ol" anu's-cyc. 'I'lic iiiiiulK>rs range 
iVoiii the Nonngcst cliiKl to (lie stoniest lady. 

() inches in eii'cnnilerenee u-i-; s a diameter of" 1?, inches. 



S 

9 

10 

11 

\2 
I -A 
14 



Ki " " " 

17 

■to a (c (( 

Take ])articu!ar care and do not get diameter too large. It would 
he much hetter to yet it the width of a line smaller tlian larger. 



(( 


^i 


a 


a 


2* 


a 


a 


^5 


a 


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a 


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PLAIN BASQUE. 

Copyrighted liy Elizabeth Gartlaiid, Philr.dilphia. 



17 

DIRECTIONS FOR DRAFTING PLAIN BASQUE. 

1. Draw line 1, ten inches above the bottom of })aper, the entire 
length of square, for waist /inc. 

2. Draw line 2 from centre of line 1, aci-ording to lenr/th of back. 

3. On lino 2 make a dot above the waist line, for the undcr-arm 
measure, and draw a line parallel to line 1, for line 3. 

4. Place centre of circle on line 2, resting; on line 3, and draiv a 
circle according to arm\'^-eije measure. 

5. Draw line 4 through the centre of circle, the same length as line 
3. Also line 5 parallel to line 4, so it will touch the top of circle on 
line '2. 

6. Draw line G touching right of circle from line o to line 1. 

7. Draw line 7 touching left of circle from line 5 to line 1. 

8. Draw the slanting diameters of circle. 

9. To right of circle, on line 4, take width of back measure. 

10. Draw line 8 from waist line up through dot just made, the 
exact length of back. 

11. Dot A is half an inch to left of line 8 on waist line. Draw a 
line from dot A to junction of lines 4 and 8. 

12. DraAV a line to left of line 8 for back of neck, which is always 
one-sixth of neck measure. 

13. Line 9 is a slanting line from cud of line just dj-awn to junction 
of lines 5 and 6. While s(|uare is in position, dot for shoulder 
measure, and curve down to line -I. 

14. Mark on line 3 the bust measure fi'oni h'nc <S Cov front line of 
waist, and draw line 10. 

15. Draw a line to right of line 10 for iVont neck, which is always 
one-fourth of neck measure, then draw a line perj)endicu]ar to this of 
the same length. 

16. Draw line 11 from line just drawn to meet line 9 on line 5. 

17. Extend line 9 up one-half inch, and slope down to length of 
back measure. 

18. Extend line 11 one-(juarter inch and slope to from neck. 



18 

10. ^leasurf! space hotwccn lines 7 and H> on waist line; divide 
.space in four e<jual parts. Two parts in centre mark the space for 
darts. The space between darts, three-quarters of an inch, is fcmnd by 
placing a mark three-eigliths of an inch each side of centre mark. 

20 Draw a line in each centre of space for darts; front dart ac- 
cording to measure, back dart one-half inch higher. Tlien draw tlie 
curve for darts. 

21. Take half the space between dot A and line 6 and make dot B. 

22. One and three-quarter inches to left of A make dot C. Place 
point of Curvature at Circle on line. 4, and draw a curved line to C. 

23. Draw the curve for side body by placing the inside of Curvature 
at dot B on waist line, and let it touch back line above line 3, and ex- 
tend line into Circle one-half inch. 

24. Curve the line for armhole from end of extended line, around 
to touch line 4 on opposite side. 

25. Make dot D on waist line, one-half inch to right of line 6. 
Make dot E on junction of inside curved line in armhole and 

slanting line on right, and draw line 12 to dot D on waist line. 

26. Make dot F on inside curved line, one-half inch to left of line 
2, and draw line 13 straight down to waist line parallel with line 2, 
and make dot G. 

27. The width of under-arm gore. From the waist measure take 
tlie sum of the back measure and front measure, omitting the width of 
darts. Care must be taken not to omit the space between darts. The 
surplus of half the waist measure is taken out by an equal division to 
the left of dots D and G, and make dots H and I. 

28. Draw lines 14 and 15 from I to F and from II to F. 

29. The curve for waist line is made by beginning at back dart and 
slope above line 1 about one-half inch, and down to back. 

30. The curve for inside of side b<xly is make by keeping the same 
measure or width all the way up. 

31. Curve for under-arm piece is one-cpiartcr of aji inch inside of 
lines 13 and 15. 



19 

Curvo the sanio for fioiit from line 11, 

32. Take olfa little IVoru the front, should it Mj)[)ear too wide when 
compared with the side body, and add it to the side body. 

Uncommonly stout ladies may require two undcr-arm gores. 

33. Make shoulder line from end of ])erpendicular line at neck, to 
junction of lines 5 and for line 11. 

34. The shortest part of shoulder should be directly on to[), and is 
found by placing point of square at top of perpendicular line of side 
neck and top of Circle, and make a mark at shoulder measure, then 
curve from shoulder line down to left of Circle on line 4. 

35. Measure Arm's-eye, and if too short, add what is wanting to 
front shoulder, sloping to front neck. 

36. Draw line 16 for Hip line the height of hip measure below 
waist line. 

37. Extend lines 8, 10, and centre lines of darts; extend dart lines 
one-quarter inch each side of centre line ; mark dots B, C, I), I, J, 
and H on hip line. 

38. Slope back line from dot A to bottom of line 8. 

Carve of back is sloped from dot C one-half of an inch to left of dot 
C on hip line. 

Back of .side body is sloped from B, three-fourths of an inch to right 
of B on hip line. 

Back of undcr-arm piece is sloped from J, one and a (piarter inches 
to right of I on hip line. 

Front of side body is slo])ed from D, one and a quarter inches to left 
of D on hip line. 

Front of under-arm piece is sloped from J one and a quarter inches 
to left of J. 

Back of front is sloped from II, one and a half inches to right of 
H on hi]) line. 

39. If too small around hij)s, allowance should be made in back 
seams if a bustle is worn, or in darts and side seam if the lady has a 
high stomach. 



20 



40. The front of waist is curved in from neck about one-cpiarter of 
an inch to line 1 ; curved out one-quarter of an inch, and in to hei^^dit 
of dart, and in to waist line one-lialf inch, tlien out to one inch above 
hip line. 



21 

SPECIAL NOTE TO PUPILS. 

Vtv :i lli(»r()iiuli study of iIh'sc questions and answers, the pupil will 
be cnahlcd to understand tlie system nnicJi helter. 

(^'hcn. What is line 1 ? 

Alts. It is intended ior the iniisf line. 

(^Hcs. What is line 2;' 

.l./.s. h'oi" the itnihr-(tnn iiirasnre. 

(Jit,s. What is line .'> ? 

Alls. The hiisf iiied.siirr. 

Qucfi. What is line 4? 

Alls. The right side of circle is w'uUh of back. The left side is 
wit till of cJirsf. 

(^ucs. What is line 5? 

Ans. The shoukhr line ends on line 5. 

Qucs. For what are lines (J and 7 used ? 

Ans. They touch the right and left of circle and divide the IxhIv, 
the back from the front. 

(^nes. Of what use are the sfantin;/ (lidinrters'? 

Alls. The end of the upjtcr ri;/lif, where it touches line 5, is the 
lower end of shoulder line. 

Th'> c:ul of th2 /oirer left marks the front seam oi' sleeve. 

The end of the Kpjxr lift marks where fullness at top begins. 

The viu\ of the /oircr rir/ht marks dot E, where inside of side-body 
L~ drawn to dot I). 

(Jaes. What is line S ? 

An-i. Lcnf/th of back moasurf. 

Qucs. What is line 9 ? 

.1/(6'. Line 9 is back shoulder line. 

Qhcs. What is line 10? 

Ans. Line 10 is front line of waist. 

Qucs. What is line 11 ? 

Ans. Line 11 h front shoulder \i\u\ 
Qucs. For what is line 12 used? 



22 

Anft. Lino 12 Is used to find tlio front line of side-body, from dot 
D to dot E. 

Qucs. For M'liat is line 13 used ? 

Ans. Line 13 is used to fiud//-07(^ line of under-arm gore from dot 
F to dot G. 

Qui'.s. For wliat is lino 14 used? 

Ans. Lino 14 is used to find hack of undcr-arm (/ore, from dot E 
to dot I. 

Quen. For ■\vliat is lino 15 used? 

Auk Lino 15 is used to find Ixtek line of front, from dot F to dot H. 

Qucs. For what is line IG used '/ 

Ans. Line 10 is used for hip measure. 

Qucs. For what is dot A used ? 

Ans. Dot A is on waist line and is used for slope of bach. 

Ques. For what is dot B used ? 

Ans. Dot B is on waist line, and marks back of side-body. 

Qucs. For what is dot C used ? 

Ans. Dot C IS on waist line and marks front of back. 

(^nrs. For what is dot D used ? 

Ans. Dot D is on waist line and marks front of side-body. 

Ques. For what is dot E used ? 

Ans. Dot E is at the junction of inside curve of circle, and lower 
right end of diameter, and is the top of front of side-body. 

Ques. For what is dot F used ? 

Alls. Dot F is one-half inch to left of lino 2 on circle, and is the 
to}) of front of U7uler-arni gore. 

Ques. l\)r what is dot G used ? 

Ans. Dot G is on waist line, and is the lower front of under-arm gore. 

Ques. For what is dot H used? 

Ans. Dot H is on waist line, and is the lou-er back of under-arm gore. 

Ques. For what is dot I used ? 

Ans. Dot I is on waist line, and marks the back edge of front 
of body. 




SLEEVE. 

Copyrighted by Elizabeth Gartland, Philadelphia. 

MEASURES FOR DRAFTING SLEEVE. 

1. Neck to Elbow, 1!) inches. 

2. Shoulder, o indies. 

3. Arms-eye, 14 inches. 

4. Inside to Bend, 8 inclies. 

5. Inside to Wri.st, 1(5 inches. 

6. U])per Arm, 12 inches. 

7. Middle Arm, lU inches. 

8. Elbow, 11 inches. 

9. Lower Arm, 10 inches. 

10. Wrist, 8 inches. 

1. J AUG 1 is a straight line inside to wrist measure, with diameter 
of circle of arm's-eye added. 

2. AVhile square is in position make dot A at top end of inside to 
wrist measure ; one inch to right make dot E. 

3. Make dot C measure from " Inside to Bend " below dot A. 

4. Make (h)t 1) measure from Inside to A\ rist below dot A. 

5. Line 2 forms a right-angle with line 1, and is one inch less than 
two-thirds of arm's-eye. 

f). liine 3 is drawn from line 2 parallel with line 1. 

7. Line 4 from dot D to line .'5. 

8. Lines 5, H, 7, from dots A, B, (' to line .">. 

9. Make dot K, one inch and a half below line 7 on line 3, and 
dmw line 8 from dot K to dot ( '. 

10. Make dot V in centre of line 2 and draw a line ])arallel with 
line 1, to line (). 



24 

11. Make (lot (i OIK' inch to inside of lino 1 on line X. 

12. Make '''' one inch inside of dot ii on line 8. 

13. Make dot II on liiu; 1, one-imlf ineii above dot D. 

14. Draw a line from dot 11, one and three-quarter inc^hes outside 
of line 1, and make dot I. 

15. Draw lines from A to O, and from G to I. 

IG. Make dot J two-thirds the size of Elbow from dot G on line S. 

17. Make dot K one-third the size of Elbow from dot G on line <S. 

18. Place j)oint of square on dot I with the long arm touching * 
on line 8, and draw line from I, two-thirds the size of wrist measure 
and make dot L. • 

19. Dot M is one-third of wrist measure. 

20. Draw lines I'rom junction of centre line, and line G to dot K, 
and from K to ]\r. 

From junction of lines G and o to, dot J, and from dot J to dot L. 

21. Curve from d(»t A to dot F ; from F to junction of lines :^ and 
6, also from .\ to junction of line G and centre line. 

22. Make curved dotted line on uppei- and lower sk^eve according 
to arm's-eye measure. 

A line dniwn between A and K shows where to measure middle 
arm, and a line drawn between (J and 1 shows when' to measure 
lower arm. 

23. A raised sleeve ref|uires a curve one inc ii lii|^her. 



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— i 



SKIRT. 

Copyrighted ty Elisabeth Gartlaiid. Philadelphia. 





SKIRT. 

Copyrighted by Elizabeth Gartlanri, Philndelph:» 



MEASURES FOR DRAFTING SKIRT. 

Waist Pleasure, "2 I inclies. 

Hip Measure, 40 inches. 

Length of Front, 40 inches. 

Length of Back, 41 ir.chcs. 

Width of Skirt, 2 yards. 

The length of front skirt should be taken, and the darts in top 
sh(Kdd 1 e shaped according to figure. The side breadth is cut some- 
what longer than front breadth, and is but half the width. A dart is 
also taken off the edge of front breadth, and sloped to fit the figure. 
The same thing is done to back edge of side breadth. The back 
breadth is not sloped. In sewing up the breadths, a bias and a straight 
edge are put together, holding the former toward you. 

If the skirt is preferred wider, the extra fullness is invariably put 
in the back. 

Those ladies Avho like a long, narrow skirt, arc sometimes annoyed 
by the skirt catching or drawing in front at the bottom. This is 
obviated by making two cuts in the front breadth, three inches deep, 
and about four inches from each side of the centre. To finish oif the 
skirt nicely, the skirt braid should be continued around these cuts. 
The trimming falling over them, hides them from view. 

IMPORTANCE OF HIP MEASURE OF SKIRT. 
It is a mistake for any one to think that a skirt is so easily made 
that no instruction is needed. It is of as much importance for the 
skirt to fit the figure, as it is for the basque to do so. For is it not as 
impossible for one universal skirt jjattern to fit all figures, either slen- 
der or stout, as it is to have one sleeve or basque pattern fit al' 
sizes of arms or bodies? A slender young girl of sixteen or eighteen 
vcars of a<re would be lost in a skirt intended for a ladv of two hun- 
dred pounds weight, or vice versa, the fully developed lady of whom 
we speak would l)e unable to get into the skirt intended for the 
young girl. 



28 

I 

BASQUE, No. 2. 

This l);is(juo is used w licii a lady has a slVndor figure, and lias, or 
desires, the a|)i)caraiice of a full hiisf, hecausc the fulhiess is throw:) t ) 
the front . 

Ill (h-altiiig- this basque the lines are diMwii the s uiie as in Basqr.c 
Xo. 1 , exeept the dart lines. I'rocedc in same nianner hv dividing 
the space on Avaist line l)et\V(vn lines 10 and 7, into four ecpial j)arts. 
Instead of three-cpiarters of an inch between darts we generally allow 
one inch. 

The spacs between darts can l)e determined at will. The front dart 
can be made as small as you desire, and thus allow more fullness in 
back dart ; or both darts ma}- be run into one below the waist line, 
thus making the fullness in bust greater. 

The front dart is the same height as in ordinary bas(pie, according 
to measure, but is but one-half to an inch in size. 

The front })art of back dart is also the saiue as usual. The back of 
this dart is first drawn in the same manner, then one-half inch or an 
inch is added according to fullness re((uired, but not further back than 
line 7. 

In order to ^et back line of iVont, measure the same as <rivcn in 
dire(;ti()ns for Jiasque No, 1, according to the common dart measure, 
then the dinerencc in back dart, or in other Mords the I'nllness taken 
out in ba<;k dart, is added to the back part of front, above as well as 
below the waisi line. 

This will give the desired waist measure. 

If von wish to prevent a confusion of lines, the under-arm gor(> can 
\k' drawn in different color pencil, or separately, as in diagram. 

If nature has denied a natural fullness, art coines to the rescue, and 
])adding must be used. .V ]>iece of l^reiich canvas sewed in with th" 
back dart and reaching to, an<l sewed in with, the iinder-arni sen;!, 
vill throw the bust out and give a full apjiearancc. The spa(-> can 
tlun be filled in with wadding. 



29 



vq 




BASQUE. 

CopyrigUted by Kli;;abeth aartlaud, Philadelphia. 



31 




BASQUE, with Plaits in Back. 

Oopyr.eb,.d By ElU.b.th G.rtl.nd, PUM.lptl.. 

DIEECTIONS FOE MAKING PLAITS IN BACK OF 

BASQUE. 
If the l,Kly is short-w.is,c,l an ,„klitio„ of .Ix.ut Kve in.-hes is made 
at XVaist line, on eaeh side of Iniek ; .hen ,„e Bas„ne . ,.nt togct er 
this forms a donble box plait on eaeh side of the baek sean,. I tl^ 
lady is long.^vaisted the addition is made at the extension of baek, 
one or two inches below waist. 

Make fonr or five in,.hes on eaeh side of baek forn, acordnig to the 
fullness desired. If a lady is short-waisted this add.fon ,s n.ade one 
.„. two inehes below Waist line, whieh will give her "- »1'P-™- f 
a Ion. waist. To give a short-waisted efieet start at the Wa.st hne. 
The plaits are eontinned for Prineess Dress or Wrapper. 



32 

POLANAISE, PRINCESS DRESS AND WRAPPER. 

TIh'sc arc :ill cut on lli.' siuiic principle as tlic riaiii l>as(|uc. They 
may liav(! eitlicr one oi- two daiis, wliicli are carried Ixlow waist to 
liij>. Prepare the |)attern the same as lor Jiasipie. ("lit each part oC 
liiiino; lirst, and hiy trout and nnder-arin on material, letting- the front 
side-i)ody tonch on hip measure. Keej) the i>attern strai<;ht on waist 
line, without cuttint; open, tlien cut down the full len<j;th of skirt. 
Always lav tlu' pattern so as to slope out in fi'ont, ahout an inch and 
a lialf or two inches helow the hip line. \W thus sloping;' wider it 
will meet at the hottom of skirt, and always keep the dress IVom 
riding up in front. 

The \\ (list Llninf/ should reach to ahout twelve inches helow waist, 
if not lined all thi-ough, so as to take up a jdait helow the hip, hehind 
the iVont side-hodv, which will always keep your skii • from throwino; 
unnecessary fullness toward the IVont. This is done on linin<;' before 
the outside is? put on. 

The back of sdinc dress. T^ay y(tur lining- or pnjter ])attern on 
goods the same as front. If double width goods is used, lay the 
centre of back on ibid, v, ith the lining oi- pattern about six or seven 
inches from the edge ot ba<"k. 

The hack sidc-hodji is placed the same distance from the back forir. 
as the back is from the Q(V^(\ which will allow fbi- fullness in the back. 

Cut around tlie patteiMi of waist, leaving one piece one or two inches 
below waist, which will make the drapery of j)olanaise. 



33 
SPECIAL RULES FOR STOUT LADIES. 

The hack l('n;j;th iiieasiire must ho taken dlirorontly Tor stout ladies 
with rour.d shoulders. Take th;' measure from hack of neck to guide, 
•md note tli(> measure. Then from i;u de to lull extent in the waist. 
Ladies t Cihis ligure are generally long waiste<l in the hack, and with 
very hii-ge Iiip . 

In md<ing draft this measure must he used up and down on hust 
liiu', ih'^ sanu' as in measure, as tlie round shoulder uses up the cloth, 
and will make the dress short w.ii-ted in the hac-k, and will also drag 
the seam towards arm's-eye. 

Lddlrs iritJi jldhhij or /it'dvi/ l)(m)o\. A tight hust measure must be 
taken. After draft is di-awn, from three-quarters to an inch must be 
added to top of neck, as the weight of hosom will drag it down. 

Also in basting shoulder scam, IVom one-half to three-quarters of an 
inch is taken uj» beyond tracing line on front, from neck to arm's-eve. 
A lady of this figure likes the feeling of a tight dress. 

The darts in front must bo thrown back a trifle, perhaps a half to 
three-quarters of an ineh more than for a slender figure; a little more 
curve is required between height of dart and waist line. 

SPECIAL RULES FOR SLENDER LADIES. 

Slender ladies with round slioulders. The length of back is taken 
the same as for stout ladies. 

Fewer scamn, greater Kixice in hack <ni<l betwa u darts give a less 
slender appearance. 

An English back should be worn by a very slender lady. 

One of the advantages of this system is that the seams and spaces 
can be made to suit both wairer and cutler, and never interferes with 
the fit of dress. 

A second volume contains Rules and Ivcgulatioiis concerning everv 
<'once;vaI>le se<'ret or (piestion r,n liic ai't of measuring, drafting, trac- 
ing, cutting, basting, fitting, making and iinishing, as well as the 
amount of material re(iniral for any article of dress. 



34 

THE DRESS-MAKER'S CATECHISM. 

Kvcrif Dress-inakcr .should icsf htrsc/f />// fhc fofJoiriiif/ (^)t(rsli()ns. 

1. ])() 1 lioiicstlv ('onsidi'i' myself' coiiijx'teiit to take tli(' ^oods hc- 
loiiginji' t(i aiKitlicr pcrsDii, and rctiini tlic <j:;aniK'nt, wlicu finished, 
without delay or I'ault ? 

2. Do I lionestly consider myself jxTt'eet in the art of dress- 
making ? 

3. Do I thoronghlv understand each and all the branches connected 
with the art of dress-making; namely, jNIeasuring, Drafting, ("ntting, 
Basting, Fitting and Sewing? 

4. Do T understand these branches so well that 1 can finish a dress 
without refitting? 

5. Do r Thoroughly understand the new system by which the Sleeve 
is Measured, Drafted, Cut, liastcd, and adjusted proj)erly? 

6. Am I competent to arrange the drajiery according to th<' style 
most becoming to the figure of the wearer? 

7. Am I comj)etent to give either the French or English style of 
fit, according to the wish of the wearer? 

8. Am ] comjietent to rcj)roduce ])atterns or styles from any fashion 
plate or book ? 

1). Am I com])etent to invent new styles without patterns? 

10. Can I fit a dress without the aid of Charts of any kind, simply 
i)y the use of sheai's, tape measure and ruler, as taught by " T/ic Oriyi- 
n<rf Lady T((Uor Siistciu f 

If these (piestions can be truthfully answered, rest assured you 
have the (pialificafions necessary to insure success 

WHERE SHALL DRESS-MAKERS LOOK FOR HELP ? 

Help of all kinds is inferior to whal it was formerly, although the 
^alarv e.N[)ecte(l is higher, and the hours shcrler. I>eing an American 
born citizen we are sorrv lo be obliged to ackunwledge it, l)ut it is our 
experience that the (Jcrmans are more systematic than other nations in 



35 

the. ('('iicatioii of (licir cliildreii. 'i'lic pi-iiiciplcs of (ho Kiiulersrarton 
arc carried throu^li all grades of scliools, conscqueiitly the ju-ople arc 
more thorough in everything they undertake. 

A number of ajiplicants eamc^ lo our office in answer to an adver- 
tisement. We asked No. 1 : — 

Qkc.s. " What do you know about I)r(>ss-making?" 

^l?}.s-. "I know a gre;it deal.'' 

Qiics. " Could you cut and lit a dress?" 

A)is. " I Could try." 

Q;(c>!. " How long have you worked at the trade?" 

Ans. "About two months altogether." 

Qkc.^. " Can you sew up these seams ?" 

Ans. " Oh yes ; I know T can do that." 

The skirt is given her with scams hasted. When finished we arc 
obliged to give it to another hand to ri]), as the stitching is both 
sides the basting, and by the time the end of the seam is reached, it is 
fully half an inch inside the l)asting. 

INTERVIEW WITH NO. 2. 

Qucs. " Have you learned the trade regularly ?" 

Ans. " Yes, Ma'am ; I -was with Mrs. six months." 

QiKs. " What can you do ?" 

Ans. '' I used to plait the ruffles." 

Qncs. *' Is that all you did in six months?" 

Ans. "Most all the time, but I somctinu's pulled out basting 
threads." 

She is given ruffles to plait. She conunenccH them one inch apart, 
and finishes them thrjc inches apart, after six months experience in 
nothing else. 

INTERVIEW WITH NO. 3. 

(^iics. " Have //o?i any expei-icncc ?" 

Ans. " I was with Madam ■ one month." 



36 

Que.^. " Wliy did you leave?" 

AiiK "' r i::ot tired of" \vlu{)j)in<^ seams and carrviii^^ homo hundles," 

The scams ifiven Iier to overcast Averc so ])adly done, no two stitcli(\s 
l)ein<i; the same size, that we did not wonder that her former enij)!oyer 
'.Made an errand girl of her. 

Is it a matter of" sur])ris(! tliat dress-makers get desperate when 
such specimens as tliese ])rescnt themselves for employment? It is 
true wc, occasionally ]neet with better success, but alas ! v;'ry, very 
seldom among our own country-women. ^ 

Naturallv you ask the cause of this trouble. Tt is this. In the 
davs of our grandmothers, when no such luxury as the sewing- 
machine was in existence, every girl was taught to sew as soon as she 
was old enough to hold her needle. In these days even the jioorest 
possess a sewing-machine, so that hand sewing is at a discount, and 
there arc few expert or wsxi s.'a'.nstresses t) 1)' found unles-^ they are 
foreigners. 

"There are exceptions to all rules," and we would give credit wliere 
it is due, for there ai-e American ladies who are slcillful in the use of 
the needle, but we lear tluy are few in nund)er. 

EXPERIENCED APPLICANTS, 

We havt' had applicants for positions from those who have ha«l 
from ten to fifteen years experience! in the old style of dress-making, 
going around from house to house among their j)atrons, by the day or 
week. Having had so nmch expei-iencc, tluy thought of course they 
knew all there was to learn, and that it was unnecessary to give them 
anv instruction. 

Well, not caring to dispute the matter, we set them to worJ<, aiid 
thev invariably began in the same way. 

They fu-st cut the body lining according tit the [tattern which th;y 
a.wavs cari'v with them. 

Til' lining is so large that two ladies might get in at one tiini'. h 
is tiieu tried on, wrong side out, and then the en<leavor is made to -^el 



37 

it sin:ill ciionuli, )>y jtimiiiiij; tlic scams in tiohicr. Tlic hulv is loUl to 
(Millie auniii next day, and it will lie i'('a<lv t(» \y\ on ai:;ain. 

'I'lie lady arrives next day and finds that the Iinin<;' liatl liecn 
lipped aj)art, llio ouisido material ent out, and the whoh' waist l)astcd 
totrether a^ain, hut ahis ! it is too tight in some places, too loose in 
oihcis. 

A WORD TO MOTHER'S. 

^^others, we beo- of yon, do not shirk the resj)onsil)ilitv resting- on 
yon, l)iit see to it that your danohters are thoronuhlv tannlit to nse tlic 
needle while they arc yet under your conti'ol. 

The sewing-machine is a wonderlul invention lor the saving of 
time and labor; but in order to finish the work neatly and tasten the 
threads, hand sewing is re(|uisite. 

HEALTH OF AMERICAN WOMEN. 
The statistics show in tlu; reports of practicing jjiivj^icians that the 
health of American women is greatly injured by the too constant use 
of the sewing-machine. The women of to-(hiy have not the same 
vigorous constitutions possci-sed by their grandmothers in the past 
generation. The styh; of dress and manner of living may have some 
infhieuce, but it is jirobable the sewing-machine has more, ^\'hy else 
do we liear so many comparatively young women, )iiarrial and xIikjIc, 
complaining of weaknesses of various kinds? 

SEWING-MACHINES IN DRESS-MAKING. 
The .sewing-machine in dress-niakino; should I)e used oidv in stitch- 
ing up seams, '^fhe most iin])()rtant and particular ])art of the .sewing 
is (lone hij hand, that is the finishing up. The cut and the tit may be 
perfect, but if the tinishing t(niehes are iml what tli(y should l)e, the 
dress is unfit to wear. 

A STEP IN THE RIGHT DIRECTION. 

We rejoice " with exceeding great joy " to hear that hand sewing 
lias been introduced in (»nr Philadel[)hia Xor;iial School, \\\' yet 



li()j)c tn hear tliat tliis onod wni-k (■(iiniiU'iiccd in llic K iiidcrtiai'teii will 
he continiicd tlii(iiiL;Ii tlic Primary, SccoiKJary and ( iraimnar Schools, 
so lliat wlicii our daii<;li'crs, the iiiotlicrs and wives of llic liitni'c^ are 
ready to jjradiiale IVoni tlie Noniial School, they will know, hv theorv 
and practice in this hraiich ol' domestic ccoiiomv, moi'c, far more, than 
mo-t ol" tiic motlicrs and \\i\-cs of l!ic pi-csent. 

SCHOOLS FOR DRESS-MAKING. 

Dress-niakini;- should he taupht in the same manner as other things 
are taught at scho(tl. Pupils should leai'ii their A, J*, Cs^ that is 
thev should (•ommence in the heginning and go stej) by step, and rule 
l)V I'ule, in regular oi'dcr, and leai-n everything coiniected MJth the 
business. Then those ladies who have accpiired a theoretical as well 
as a practical knowledge in every branch of the art, are qualified to 
become professional, artistic dress-makers, should stern necessity com- 
pel them to suj)port themselves. 

(^ueen N'ictoria had a familv of nine children, every one of whom 
was taught a trade. ^\'hy should not we follow that illusti'ious 
example? 



39 

REPORT OF AN INTERVIEW WITH A PUPIL. 
A Ituly willi an intelligent, pleasing eonntcnanec", possiltly alidnt 
twenty-fivo or thirty years of age, was called into the room, n<jt know- 
ing what was re<|uired of her. Prevlons to lier entrance we were told 
that a short time before tliis, she and her family liad met with the loss 
of the greater part of their fortune. She informed us that as she had 
several sisters, it was thought best for economy's sake, that one ot' 
them should learn dress-making, so that she might be al|l(» to cut, tit 
and make dresses for herself and sisters. She knew absolutely nothing 
before commencing. We give Ikh* own words. " 1 believe I could 
thread my needle," she said, laughingly, "but that is near about all I 
could do; occasionally Avhcn 1 wanted to hurry up things a little, 
when we had a dress-maker in the house, I ^\■as allowed the privilege 
of sewing on a skirt braid, or stitching up a pocket. I have been 
under Mrs. Gartland's tuition, on an average about four hours daily, 
for about four weeks, and in this ct)niparatively short time have 
learned enough to l)e trusted to make a whole dress for myself. That 
is what I am now doing, and I feel more than satisfied with my suc- 
cess ; I have most trouble in forming darts, that is, in basting the 
lines exactly opposite each other. I know I shall overcome this diffi- 
culty by experience, as 'practice makes perfect.' I reconniiend Mrs. 
Gartland's System cheerfully as well as gratefully to those who, like 
myself, are determined to learn all they can, to help themselves and 
others, instead of being a constant dependent on the kindness of rela- 
tives and friends." This young lady is considered by Mrs. Gartland 
perfectly competent to be a professional dress-maker. 

INTERVIEW WITH ANOTHER PUPIL. 
This young girl is employed in the kitchen of a neighl)oring hotel. 
Xot liking her position, the hours she is off duty, from half-past two 
until half-past five, she has spent in INIrs. Gartland's Class Rooms, for 
the last four weeks. She understood plain sewing, and had made a 
basque for herself, by ripping and taking an old one for a model, 
before taking instruction. She M'as all through except making a dress 
for herself, and expressed herself as delighted with the accomplish- 
ment of her wish(^s in so short a time, and gladly endorses all said by 
the otlu'i' pupil. 



40 
RULES FOR CUTTING. 

All soains miis( he allowed except in neck and anirs-oye. ()ne-lial(" 
incli is (Mioiiu'li, except uiidei' the ai'ins, where the seams should l»e 
somewhat deeper. It is (ihso/tifc/i/ ncccssari/ to use a (racin;/ irliccl, in 
order to have your lines jjerfectlt/ true. 

Af'ter the dress is well cut, it must he made with <;i'eat care, j)ayini;' 
strict attention to the rules. 

It is economy to use g-ood material for liuiiit;. 

Be caretul always to lay the cloth so that hotli lininu- and outside 
run the same way, as your dress will be sure to wrinkle il' either one 
or the other is on the bias. 

In CuTTiN(J Velvet, the ik/j) must run u^). 

RULES FOR BASTING. 

A basting thread must l)e rmi on the /inc of the irai.st. 

Baste carefully, so that linin<;- and outside are })erfeetly smooth. 

In basting uj) the waist, commence at the waist line, and go u]>, 
then commence again at the waist line, and go down. The most 
troidjlesome seam in the whole waist, is the curved side body seam, 
which comes next to the back. In basting this seam, on one side of 
the l)ack, commence at the waist line, and g > up as in other seams, 
holding the outward curved seam toward you. The other side must 
be pinned at tlie waist line, and at intervals up the seam, then com- 
mence basting at the top, holding the outward curved seam toward 
you as in the other side. 

Xcrcr riiii scnral .-tfifc/ics tit a time in basting, but take a single 
stitch, one by one, about one-fourth of an inch apart. l^s(^ c<»tton 
suitable to matcM'ial. 

In sewing up seams, do not have the iniic/iiac stitcii too short, or it 
will draw. 

Nick the seams, so that th(^ waist will spi'ing nicely into the figure, 
and tht.'U press them all o))en. If vou wisii to tinisji with Tailor-like 



41 

iieatno-^s, turn in the (•(li!;(s and slip stildi tlicni t ()*;•( 'tl km-, inst.-atl of 
w liij)j)in<j; (he scatns as is the general cusIomi. 

No Hook and l\i/c jncccs arc rocjuircd, hut instead a Wdisf-hand 
sliould be put inside tiie dress, to keep it in j)lace. 

W WhiLlehonci^ are used, edsinoa nuist be cut on tlie />/V^^■ and sewed 
on loosely by hand. Ribbon may be used if preferred, but must also 
be sewed on almost as if rutlhul. This l-^ to keep the bones in place 
very tight. They must each be fastened in several places along 
ea(,'h seam. 

The Ca.sui[/s must, as a rule, be ran about two inches below the 
waist line, and about an even lieiglith with the dart all around. Under 
tiic arms they may be a little higher. 

In our system whalebones are not necessary. 



